Argan Oil Benefits and Uses, and How to Spot Fakes

TL;DR

• Argan oil is a plant oil cold-pressed from the kernels of the Argania spinosa tree, which grows almost exclusively in southwestern Morocco.

• Research suggests it may help improve skin hydration, elasticity, and barrier function, thanks to its high concentration of oleic acid, linoleic acid, vitamin E (tocopherols), and polyphenols (Boucetta et al., 2015; Sobczak et al., 2024).

• UNESCO inscribed argan-related practices on its Intangible Cultural Heritage list in 2014, and the UN declared May 10 International Day of Argania in 2021.

• Always patch-test before full use, and choose cold-pressed, single-ingredient oil to avoid adulterated products.

• Argan oil is generally well tolerated but is not a substitute for medical dermatological care.

What Is Argan Oil?

Argan oil is extracted from the kernels found inside the fruit of Argania spinosa (syn. Sideroxylon spinosum), a slow-growing tree that can live for over 200 years. The species is endemic to the semi-arid Souss Valley of southwestern Morocco, where roughly 20 million trees cover an area recognized by UNESCO as the Arganeraie Biosphere Reserve since 1998.

There are two main types of argan oil. Culinary argan oil is pressed from roasted kernels and has a rich, nutty flavor used in dishes like amlou (a paste of almond, honey, and argan oil). Cosmetic argan oil is cold-pressed from unroasted kernels, preserving the lighter color and higher concentration of tocopherols that matter for skincare.

Traditionally, Amazigh women of the region have extracted argan oil by hand using stone mills. This is a labor-intensive process that can take up to 20 hours to produce a single liter. Today, many women's cooperatives use mechanical presses while still following heritage practices. In 2014, UNESCO inscribed "Argan, practices and know-how concerning the argan tree" on its Representative List of the Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity, recognizing the cultural significance of these traditions.

Key composition (cosmetic-grade argan oil):

Oleic acid (omega-9): approximately 42–55%

Linoleic acid (omega-6): approximately 28–36%

Tocopherols (vitamin E): up to ~620 mg/kg, primarily γ-tocopherol

Polyphenols, sterols (including schottenol and spinasterol), and squalene

Evidence-Informed Benefits of Argan Oil for Skin

Research on argan oil's topical effects is still developing, but several peer-reviewed studies suggest the following potential benefits:

1. Skin hydration and barrier support

A 2015 clinical trial by Boucetta et al. involving 60 postmenopausal women found that daily consumption and/or topical application of argan oil over 60 days significantly reduced transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and increased the water content of the epidermis (Boucetta et al., Skin Pharmacol Physiol, 2015; PMID 26327867). These findings suggest argan oil may support the skin's moisture barrier.

2. Improved skin elasticity

The same research group demonstrated in a separate study that both oral and topical argan oil improved gross elasticity (R2), net elasticity (R5), and biological elasticity (R7) over a 60-day period (Boucetta et al., Clin Interv Aging, 2015; PMID 25673976).

3. Antioxidant protection

Argan oil's tocopherols and polyphenols contribute antioxidant activity. A 2024 narrative review in Nutrients noted that argan oil may help balance the skin's lipid environment and exhibits antimicrobial and anti-inflammatory properties that may soothe conditions like eczema and acne, though more clinical data is needed (Sobczak et al., Nutrients, 2024; PMID 39458566).

4. Potential effect on hyperpigmentation

An in vitro study on B16 melanoma cells found that argan oil inhibited melanin biosynthesis via MITF phosphorylation, suggesting a mechanism for the traditional observation that argan oil may help even skin tone. However, this was a cell-culture study and clinical evidence in humans remains limited (Villareal et al., Evid Based Complement Alternat Med, 2013; PMC 3723062).

5. Anti-inflammatory properties

A 2018 review in Int J Mol Sci confirmed that several plant oils, including argan oil, show anti-inflammatory and skin-barrier-repair effects when applied topically, partly due to their linoleic acid content (Lin et al., Int J Mol Sci, 2018; PMC 5796020).

Important: These studies range from small clinical trials to in vitro research. While results are promising, argan oil should not be considered a proven treatment for any medical condition. A 2010 review in J Pharm Pharmacol noted that a lack of large-scale clinical data remains a key gap in our understanding of argan oil's pharmacological properties (Charrouf & Guillaume, 2010; PMID 21054392).

How to Use Argan Oil: Step by Step

For face (as a moisturizer or serum):

1. Cleanse your face with a gentle cleanser and pat dry.
2. While your skin is still slightly damp, dispense 2–3 drops of argan oil onto your fingertips.
3. Warm the oil between your palms for a few seconds.
4. Gently press (do not rub) the oil onto your face and neck using upward motions.
5. Allow 1–2 minutes to absorb before applying sunscreen (AM) or sleeping (PM).

Frequency: Once or twice daily. Many people prefer evening use.

For hair:

Apply 3–5 drops to damp, towel-dried hair, focusing on mid-lengths and ends.

Alternatively, use as a pre-shampoo mask: apply generously, wrap hair, leave for 30 minutes, then wash.

Frequency: 2–3 times per week, or as needed.

For nails and cuticles:

Massage 1 drop into each cuticle area before bed.

Frequency: Nightly if nails are brittle or dry.

In a Moroccan hammam ritual:

Argan oil is traditionally the final step in the hammam cleansing sequence. It is applied after Moroccan black soap (savon beldi), exfoliation with a kessa glove, and a ghassoul clay mask. The oil locks in moisture while the skin is still warm and freshly exfoliated. Moroccan brands like Skalli Essentials offer cold-pressed organic argan oil sourced from Moroccan cooperatives for this purpose.

Who Argan Oil Is Best For, and Who Should Be Cautious

Best suited for:

• Dry, dehydrated, or mature skin seeking extra moisture
• Anyone looking for a lightweight, non-greasy plant oil
• People with normal-to-combination skin who want to support their skin barrier
• Individuals interested in clean, minimal-ingredient skincare

Use with caution if you:

• Have a known allergy to tree nuts (argan is botanically a drupe, not a true nut, but cross-reactivity is possible in rare cases. Consult an allergist if unsure)
• Have very oily or acne-prone skin (argan oil has a comedogenic rating of 0 on some scales, but individual reactions vary. Always patch-test first)

How to Choose Authentic, High-Quality Argan Oil

The global demand for argan oil has unfortunately led to widespread adulteration. Here is how to evaluate quality:

1. Single ingredient on the label: Argania spinosa kernel oil, nothing else.
2. Cold-pressed or first-press extraction: This preserves the oil's vitamin E and polyphenol content.
3. Protected Geographical Indication (PGI): Argan oil was the first African product to receive PGI status. Look for products that reference Moroccan origin.
4. Certification: USDA Organic, ECOCERT, or equivalent third-party certification.
5. Packaging: Dark glass bottle (amber or cobalt) to protect against UV degradation.
6. Color and scent: Cosmetic argan oil should be light golden-yellow with a faint, slightly nutty scent, not odorless (possibly over-refined) or strongly nutty (possibly culinary grade).

Red flags for adulteration:

1. Very low price point (authentic cold-pressed argan oil is labor-intensive to produce)
2. Thin, watery consistency or near-odorless profile (may be diluted with cheaper oils like sunflower or soybean)
3. Plastic packaging or clear bottles
4. No clear country of origin or cooperative sourcing information

Frequently Asked Questions

Is argan oil the same as "Moroccan oil"?

Not exactly. "Moroccan oil" is a brand name (Moroccanoil) for a silicone-based hair product that contains argan oil as one ingredient. Pure argan oil is a single-ingredient oil pressed from argan kernels. They are different products with different formulations.

Can I use argan oil on oily or acne-prone skin?

 Argan oil is often rated comedogenic 0 (unlikely to clog pores), and its linoleic acid content may actually help balance sebum in some people. However, everyone's skin is different. Start with 1–2 drops at night and monitor your skin for 2 weeks.

How should I store argan oil?

In a cool, dark place away from direct sunlight and heat. A sealed dark glass bottle at room temperature is ideal. Properly stored, pure argan oil typically has a shelf life of about 18–24 months.

Can argan oil replace my moisturizer?

It depends on your skin type. For some people with normal or oily skin, a few drops of argan oil provide adequate hydration. Those with very dry skin may prefer to use argan oil *over* a water-based moisturizer or hydrating toner to seal in moisture.

Is argan oil safe during pregnancy?

Topical argan oil is generally considered safe, but no specific studies exist on argan oil use during pregnancy. If you have concerns, ask your healthcare provider.

How long before I see results?

Clinical studies observed measurable improvements in skin hydration and elasticity after 30–60 days of consistent daily use (Boucetta et al., 2015). Individual results vary.

Why is genuine argan oil so expensive?

It takes roughly 30 kg of argan fruit (from about 5–6 trees) to produce 1 liter of oil. The extraction process, even with mechanical presses, remains labor-intensive, and the trees only grow in a limited region of Morocco.

Can I use argan oil on my hair every day?

You can, but most people find 2–3 times per week sufficient. Using it daily on hair may lead to buildup for some hair types; adjust based on how your hair responds.

References:

1. Boucetta, K.Q. et al. "Skin hydration in postmenopausal women: argan oil benefit with oral and/or topical use." *Skin Pharmacol Physiol*, 2015. [PubMed](https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/26327867/)
2. Boucetta, K.Q. et al. "The effect of dietary and/or cosmetic argan oil on postmenopausal skin elasticity." *Clin Interv Aging*, 2015. [PMC](https://pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/articles/PMC4321565/)
3. Sobczak, A. et al. "The Importance of Argan Oil in Medicine and Cosmetology." *Nutrients*, 2024. [PMC](https://pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/articles/PMC11510224/) 
4. Charrouf, Z. & Guillaume, D. "Therapeutic potential of argan oil: a review." *J Pharm Pharmacol*, 2010. [PubMed](https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/21054392/) 
5. Villareal, M.O. et al. "Activation of MITF by Argan Oil…" *Evid Based Complement Alternat Med*, 2013. [PMC](https://pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/articles/PMC3723062/) 
6. Lin, T.K. et al. "Anti-Inflammatory and Skin Barrier Repair Effects of Topical Application of Some Plant Oils." *Int J Mol Sci*, 2018. [PMC](https://pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/articles/PMC5796020/)
7. Guillaume, D. & Charrouf, Z. "Physicochemical characteristics, nutritional properties, and health benefits of argan oil." *Crit Rev Food Sci Nutr*, 2011. [PubMed](https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/24580537/) 
8. UNESCO. "Argan, practices and know-how concerning the argan tree." 2014. [UNESCO ICH](https://ich.unesco.org/en/RL/argan-practices-and-know-how-concerning-the-argan-tree-00955)
9. United Nations. "International Day of Argania." [UN.org](https://www.un.org/en/observances/argania-day) 
10. Cleveland Clinic. "Argan Oil Benefits for Skin." [Cleveland Clinic](https://health.clevelandclinic.org/argan-oil-benefits)