Prickly Pear Seed Oil: Benefits, Uses & Buying Guide

TL;DR

• Prickly pear seed oil is cold-pressed from the seeds of Opuntia ficus-indica, a cactus fruit that thrives in Morocco's arid regions.

• It contains exceptionally high vitamin E levels (higher than argan oil), along with linoleic acid (~60%), phytosterols, and polyphenols.

• Early research suggests it may help support skin hydration, reduce oxidative stress, and deliver nutrients like vitamin A more effectively into the skin.

• It takes roughly 1 ton of fruit (or 30 kg of seeds) to produce 1 liter of pure oil, making it one of the most expensive plant oils on the market.

• Always patch-test before use, and verify authenticity. Cheaper "prickly pear oils" may be macerated (infused) rather than cold-pressed.

What Is Prickly Pear Seed Oil?

Prickly pear seed oil (also known as barbary fig oil, cactus seed oil, or huile de pépins de figue de barbarie in French) is extracted from the tiny seeds embedded in the fruit of Opuntia ficus-indica, a member of the cactus family. The cactus is native to the Americas but has been cultivated across the Mediterranean and North Africa for centuries, particularly in Morocco, where it thrives in the arid conditions of the Atlas Mountain foothills.

Each prickly pear fruit contains dozens of small, hard seeds, which make up 30–40% of the fruit's dry weight. Only about 5% of each seed yields oil, making the extraction process remarkably labor-intensive. Seeds are typically handpicked from the fruit pulp, washed, sun-dried, and then mechanically cold-pressed. This explains why authentic, cold-pressed prickly pear seed oil is one of the rarest and most expensive plant oils available, sometimes called "the luxury oil of the desert."

Key composition:

• Linoleic acid (omega-6): ~58–65%
• Oleic acid (omega-9): ~16–22%
• Palmitic acid: ~10–14%
• Tocopherols (vitamin E): approximately 1,000 mg/kg, among the highest of any plant oil
• Vitamin K1, phytosterols (primarily β-sitosterol), and polyphenols

Evidence-Informed Benefits of Prickly Pear Seed Oil for Skin

Research on prickly pear seed oil is still in its early stages compared to better-studied oils like argan or jojoba. However, available studies and compositional analyses suggest several potential benefits:

1. Hydration and moisture retention

With approximately 60% linoleic acid, prickly pear seed oil may help reinforce the skin's moisture barrier and reduce water loss. Linoleic acid is a key component of ceramides in the stratum corneum, and its deficiency has been linked to impaired barrier function (Lin et al., Int J Mol Sci, 2018; PMC 5796020).

2. Antioxidant protection

Prickly pear seed oil's exceptionally high tocopherol content, roughly 1.5 times that of argan oil, provides significant free-radical-scavenging capacity. Vitamin E (α- and γ-tocopherol) may help protect skin cells against UV-induced oxidative damage (Ramadan & Mörsel, Plant Foods Hum Nutr, 2003).

3. Enhanced delivery of other nutrients

A study published in the Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology found that prickly pear seed oil was an effective and safe carrier for delivering vitamin A into skin samples, owing to its favorable fatty acid profile, without the irritation sometimes caused by retinoid formulations applied alone (AlZahabi et al., J Cosmet Dermatol, 2019).

4. Potential anti-inflammatory and antibacterial properties

Research on Opuntia ficus-indica seed oil has demonstrated antioxidant and antibacterial activities in vitro, which suggests the oil could be relevant for acne-prone or environmentally stressed skin, though more human studies are needed (Koubaa et al., 2016).

Important: Most available evidence is compositional or in vitro. Large-scale clinical trials on prickly pear seed oil's topical effects in humans are limited.

How to Use Prickly Pear Seed Oil: Step by Step

For face (evening serum):

1. Cleanse your face thoroughly and pat dry.
2. Apply any water-based serums (like hyaluronic acid) first, if using.
3. Apply 2–3 drops of prickly pear seed oil onto your fingertips.
4. Press gently onto your face and neck, paying extra attention to under-eye areas, where the oil's vitamin K content may help reduce the appearance of dark circles over time.
5. Allow to absorb for 1–2 minutes.

Frequency: Best used nightly; some people also use it in the morning, followed by sunscreen.

For the under-eye area:

1. Dab 1 drop beneath each eye using your ring finger (least pressure).
2. Gently pat (never drag) in a semi-circle from inner to outer corner.
3. Allow to absorb before applying any other products.

For hair:

1. Apply 2–4 drops to dry or damp ends to reduce frizz and add shine.
2. Massage a small amount into the scalp weekly for nourishment.

As a final step in a hammam ritual:

After exfoliating with a kessa glove and rinsing, prickly pear seed oil can be applied as a post-hammam face treatment to lock in moisture while the skin is warm and freshly cleansed.

Who Prickly Pear Seed Oil Is Best For, and Who Should Be Cautious

Best suited for:

1. Mature skin for anti-aging support
2. Dry or dehydrated skin needing deep, non-greasy moisture
3. Those concerned with dark under-eye circles or uneven tone
4. People who prefer lightweight facial oils that absorb quickly

Use with caution if you:

1. Have a known sensitivity to cactus plants or related species
2. Prefer to test new products slowly. Start with every-other-night use

Safety & Patch Test

Prickly pear seed oil is not a known common allergen and has a low comedogenic rating (typically rated 1–2 on the 0–5 scale). 

Patch-test: Apply a drop to your inner wrist or behind your ear. Wait 24–48 hours. Discontinue if redness or irritation develops.

Sensitivity: While rare, some individuals may react to any plant-derived oil. If you experience breakouts after initial use, reduce frequency or consult a dermatologist.

Disclaimer: This article is for informational purposes only and is not medical advice.

How to Choose Authentic Prickly Pear Seed Oil (and Avoid Fakes)

This is critical. The prickly pear oil market has a significant counterfeiting problem. Here's what to know:

Cold-pressed seed oil vs. macerated oil:

• Cold-pressed seed oil (the premium product): Mechanically pressed from the seeds; contains the highest concentration of vitamin E and linoleic acid.
• Macerated oil (infused oil): Made by steeping prickly pear fruit flesh in a carrier oil like sunflower oil. It is far less potent and much cheaper to produce, but is sometimes marketed misleadingly as "prickly pear oil."

How to verify quality:

• INCI name: Should read Opuntia ficus-indica seed oil. Not "Opuntia ficus-indica fruit extract" or similar.
• Color: Light greenish-gold.
• Scent: Herbaceous, slightly earthy. Not fruity (fruity = likely macerate).
• Price: If it's very inexpensive for the volume (e.g., a large bottle for under $15), it is almost certainly not pure cold-pressed seed oil.
• Packaging: Dark glass, ideally with a dropper.
• Source transparency: Reputable brands identify the country of origin that produces the oil.

Skalli Essentials offers 100% pure Moroccan prickly pear seed oil that is mechanically cold-pressed from seeds (not fruit pulp), contains no additives or carrier oils, and is sourced directly from Moroccan cooperatives in the Atlas region.

Frequently Asked Questions

Is prickly pear seed oil better than argan oil?

They serve complementary purposes. Prickly pear seed oil has higher vitamin E and linoleic acid concentrations, making it potentially more targeted for anti-aging and under-eye concerns. Argan oil has more oleic acid and is richer in sterols, making it versatile for general moisture and barrier support. Many Moroccan skincare routines use both.

How long before I notice results?

As with most plant oils, visible changes (improved texture, reduced dryness, brighter under-eye area) typically emerge after 4–8 weeks of consistent daily use.

Can I use prickly pear seed oil if I have oily skin?

Yes. Its high linoleic acid content may actually help regulate sebum production. Use sparingly (1–2 drops) and monitor your skin.

What is "huile de pépin de figue de barbarie"?

This is the French name for prickly pear seed oil (huile de pépin = seed oil; figue de barbarie = barbary fig / prickly pear). It is the same product.

Can I apply prickly pear seed oil around my eyes?

Yes, many people use it specifically for the under-eye area. Its lightweight texture and vitamin K content make it well-suited for this delicate zone. Be gentle and avoid getting oil directly in the eyes.

How should I store it?

In a sealed dark glass bottle, away from heat and direct sunlight. Refrigeration is optional but can extend shelf life. Use within 12 months of opening.

References

1. Ramadan, M.F. & Mörsel, J.T. "Oil Cactus Pear (Opuntia ficus-indica L.)." Plant Foods Hum Nutr, 2003. PubMed
2. Chougui, N. et al. "Oil composition and characterisation of phenolic compounds of Opuntia ficus-indica seeds." Food Chem, 2013. PubMed
3. AlZahabi, S. et al. "Nanostructured lipid carriers incorporating prickly pear seed oil for the encapsulation of vitamin A." J Cosmet Dermatol, 2019. DOI: 10.1111/jocd.12891.
4. Koubaa, M. et al. "Seed oil extraction from red prickly pear using hexane and supercritical CO₂." J Sci Food Agric, 2016.
5. Lin, T.K. et al. "Anti-Inflammatory and Skin Barrier Repair Effects of Topical Application of Some Plant Oils." Int J Mol Sci, 2018. PMC
6. Healthline. "Prickly Pear Oil: Benefits, Uses, and Tips." Healthline
7. Mayo Clinic (Zeratsky, K.). "Prickly pear cactus, What's behind the hype?" Mayo Clinic